Friday, October 28, 2011

Petrozavodsk and Svirstroy

We docked in Petrozavodsk early on Saturday morning and set out for a city tour after breakfast. Founded in 1703 for Peter the Great, Petrovskaya Sloboda (as it was called) maintained an iron foundry for manufacturing cannons and anchors. During WWII it was occupied by the Finnish troops until freed by the Soviet forces in 1944. Today Petrozavodsk is the capital of the Republic of Karelia with a population of about 266,000 people.

This is a giant statue of Joseph Stalin overlooking a park
 with an eternal flame honoring the war dead.

We visited one of many city markets where locals could
 buy anything from fresh fish to tennis shoes.

The food stalls were accessed by speaking to the proprietor through this little window.
 Transactions were made and purchases delivered here.

The Alexandro Nevsky Cathedral was constructed in 1825-32 to meet the spiritual needs of the foundry workers. The work was funded through donations from the workers themselves. In 1901 the original church was replaced by the current stone temple. It was closed down by the Soviets in 1929 and used as a museum until 1993. It is now the main place of Orthodox worship in the Republic of Karelia. The old legend says that if there is a functioning temple named after great righteous prince Alexander Nevsky in a town, then enemy would never trespass it.

We returned to the ship for lunch and a leisure afternoon, then went to the Karelian Folk Show. We enjoyed an hour of singing, dancing, and traditional Russian musical instrumental music. The young people are students at the State University in Petrozavodsk. Their music ranges from the ancient epic songs accompanied by Finnish harps to a capella Russian village songs, from old shepherd melodies on wooden flutes and trumpet to Finnish dances on accordions, and from scythe accompaniment to church bells.
In keeping with our "market" experience, our dinner on this evening was a selection of very traditional Russian food from a Market Buffet. After dinner we were treated to some humorous presentations of Russian Fairy Tales.

On Sunday we spend a quiet morning on ship as we make our way out of Lake Onega and into the Svir River. Once again the landscapes on the river are beautiful and picturesque.

We notice that most of the buildings along the river are bright and colorful, dispelling the notion that Russia is a drab and colorless country. It makes my heart happy.

The Matryoshka doll competition begins this morning and all the hand painted dolls are displayed at the Hospitality Desk. Passengers are encouraged to vote for their favorite and the winner will be announced tonight at the talent show.

At long last we arrive in Svirstroy and go immediately to a local home for Tea and Pirozhki. We divide into groups of ten and have a lively discussion with our hostess, exploring her way of life and sharing ours.

Following our home visit, it's back to the ship, but not before some quality time in the shops! We saw fur hats and coats, nesting dolls and shawls, children's toys and shoes, birch bark boxes and amber jewelry. You name it, someone had a stall with it! And we had the better part of an hour to enjoy it.


Tonight was the Captain's Farewell Dinner as we will dock tomorrow morning in St. Petersburg and end the sailing portion of our trip. What appears to be the traditional "Farewell" dessert is the parade of Baked Alaska! The chef and servers carried these beautiful flaming desserts throughout the dining room and then served ample slices at our table. It was a memorable ending to a delightful week of cruising. As we fall asleep tonight, our ship will take us to St. Petersburg and we'll awaken to this exciting city and all that it has to offer.


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